September 28, 2002

  • At first, I thought this was a display of exorbitance and flamboyance.  But I now realize that this is essentially a pursuit of excellence:


    Garage wines are the in-thing in Bordeaux. In the past, big estates were characterised by the brands they made on their large tracts of land. Largely the brainchild of Rolland, garage wines adopt a Burgundian approach: you select a minute piece of soil and throw a small fortune at it. You pare down the yields to nothing but a few healthy grapes and vinify them in spanking new oak barrels, then charge a king's ransom for a few oversubscribed bottles.

    —Giles MacDonogh, "Depardieu with a nose for glamour," The Financial Times (London), May 4, 2002

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